Alaska is full of quirky towns, but the small village of Whittier, located on the Prince William Sound, may just take the cake—you can only drive there via the longest highway tunnel in North America (two and a half miles long!) and ALL of the town’s residents live in a single building that also serves as its school, grocery store, healthcare clinic, and police station.
Sounds kinda odd? It definitely is, but there’s also some really cool and beautiful things to experience in this small town as well. So, if you’re visiting for a day or two, here are 7 awesome things to do in Whittier, Alaska.
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About Whittier, Alaska
Before we dive into what to get up to in this quirky little town, let’s give a little bit more background on Whittier, because it’s a pretty unique place.
Whittier was established in 1941 as a secret military base, during World War II, for the U.S. army. The military selected Whittier’s location, due to its year-round ice-free harbor and its frequently cloudy skies and fog, which shielded the town from detection by the Axis Powers.
During the U.S. military’s operations in Whittier from the 1940s through 1960s, residents lived in two buildings—Begich Towers and the Buckner Building. However, between the military leaving the town in 1966 and an earthquake that damaged the Buckner Building in 1964, the vast majority of the town’s residents eventually wound up moving into the Begich Towers, where most of them still live today.
Nowadays, Whittier’s economy has shifted to being largely dependent on the fishing industry (a local actually invited us out on a salmon vessel while we were in town!), as well as tourism.
Things to do in Whittier, Alaska
1. Hike the Portage Pass Trail
One of the most popular things to do in Whittier is to hike the stunning Portage Pass Trail, which offers epic views of the Chugach Mountains, the Prince William Sound, and the Portage Glacier, a six mile long sheet of ancient ice spilling between the mountains. This hike is actually the only way that you can catch a glimpse of the Portage Glacier on your own two feet (otherwise, you’ll need to take a boat!).
Here’s some quick stats about the trail:
- Length: 4.6 miles
- Elevation gain: 1,463 feet
- Difficulty: Moderate
There’s a few steep uphill climbs along the way, but the views of the Portage Glacier and the glacial lake that it feeds is WELL worth it. Plus, depending on when you hike it, the trail may be surrounded by beautiful wildflowers—my husband, Justin, and I hiked here in late July and there were vibrant lupines seemingly everywhere!
2. Explore Whittier’s harbor
Given the town only has a few hundred residents, there aren’t a TON of shops and restaurants in Whittier. Still, like any proper tourist hub, there are a handful of places lining the town’s harbor where you can pick up some souvenirs or some seriously solid fish and chips, if you’re in the mood.
Here are some of my favorite places to pop into when you’re in Whittier:
- Prince William Sound Salt Co.: Locally made sea salt with lots of free samples and tons of fun flavors, like lime jalapeno or alder-smoked sea salt
- Log Cabin Gifts: Adorable little cabin, hawking locally made arts, crafts, and homegoods that you’ll actually use when you get home
- Varly’s Swiftwater Seafood Cafe: This restaurant has the perfect amount of kitschy dive-bar kind of charm, with lots of buoys, nets, and other nautical items decorating its interior. Justin and I grabbed a basket of fries and some beer here after hiking the Portage Pass Trail and had a great time enjoying the views of the Prince William Sound (and all those sweet carbs) from its patio.
3. Go on a glacier cruise
One of the most popular things to do in Whittier is to go on a 26 Glacier Cruise, like this option, which is so named for (you guessed it!) the 26 glaciers found on the western side of the Prince William Sound.
Besides seeing a bunch of different types of glaciers, ranging from tidewater (i.e., ones that terminate in the ocean) to valley (i.e., ones that flow between two mountains), you’ll also get to see the stunning scenery of the surrounding Chugach National Forest and the wildlife that call it home, including seals, sea lions, otters, and even bears! Throughout the tour, a knowledgeable ranger will share information about the geology and animals that you pass along the way.
As an added bonus, the Prince William Sound is in a protected fjord and, accordingly, is known for its calm waters—so most of the tour operators here literally offer a guarantee that you won’t get seasick!
4. Hike the Emerald Cove Trail
If you’re looking for a hike that’s a bit more adventurous than Portage Pass, consider hiking the Emerald Cove Trail.
This hike follows closely along the shoreline of the sound, passing waterfalls, streams that are full of spawning salmon, and berry-laden greenery. At its endpoint, you’ll reach a small cove that overlooks the beautiful turquoise water and the surrounding snow-capped mountains.
The trail is also VERY muddy (like, possibly-lose-your-boots-in-the-mud kind of muddy), overgrown, and generally poorly maintained. Justin and I visited Whittier on a sunny day after a week of constant downpour and quickly abandoned hiking this trail, as we were scared we were going to fall over in the thick mudpits we kept encountering and seriously hurting ourselves.
Still, if you luck out with a bout of dry weather and are up to get a bit muddy, this trail feels like an authentic Alaskan adventure. Just remember to bring trekking poles and a change of shoes and socks!
5. Visit Prince William Sound Museum
If you want to learn a bit more about local Alaskan history, the Prince William Sound Museum covers Whittier’s involvement in World War II and the Cold War, with tons of historical photographs, documents, and artifacts, ranging from model airplanes to military uniforms that kept soldiers warm throughout the harsh Alaskan winters.
The museum is small, but packed with information and, with just a $5 admission fee, it’s well worth an hour of your time while you’re in Whittier.
6. Take the ferry to Valdez, Alaska
You can sail from Whittier across the Prince William Sound to the quirky little town of Valdez, using the Alaska Marine Highway ferry.
If you have time to add the ferry ride and Valdez into your Alaska itinerary, I’d HIGHLY recommend it—the six hour cruise passes countless glaciers, stunning mountain views, and, with any luck, marine life, like sea otters, sea lions, and even orcas.
Plus, there are so many cool things to do in Valdez, from watching sea lions feast at the largest single species salmon hatchery in North America to kayaking through icebergs on a glacial lake. Out of the dozens of towns that we stopped at during our three months in Alaska, Valdez was one of our absolute favorites!
During the summertime, there are sailings from Whittier on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays
7. See salmon at the Williwaw Salmon Viewing Area
Okay, this one is cheating a tiny bit, because it’s actually located outside of the town of Whittier.
However, if you’re driving here, you’ll have to enter the town via the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel (more on that below) along Portage Glacier Road. Shortly before you enter the tunnel, you’ll pass the Williwaw Salmon Viewing Area on the right hand side.
There’s a (totally free!) wooden platform overlooking a clear stream that serves as the spawning grounds for all five species of Pacific salmon from around July through September, plus educational signs so you can learn about the fascinating and weird lifecycle of these fish. During certain times of the summer, like late August, you’ll see THOUSANDS of salmon wriggling up the stream, as well as the wildlife that feed on them, including black bears, bald eagles, and, on rare occasions, even grizzly bears!
This was the first place we ever spotted a salmon swimming upstream, and it felt like one of those quintessential “holy crap, we’re in Alaska!” moments.
How to get to Whittier, Alaska
Whittier is nestled deep in a fjord in the Prince William Sound, about an hour southeast of Anchorage. Despite its proximity to Alaska’s largest city, it’s not exactly the most straightforward to get to.
Driving to Whittier
Regardless of which direction you’re coming from, you’ll need to drive on Highway 1 along the stunning Turnigan Arm, which offers jaw-dropping views of the Gulf of Alaska and the Chugach Mountains, and then eastward onto Portage Glacier Road for about 16 miles.
Before you reach Whittier, though, you’ll need to go through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, a two and a half mile stretch that has the impressive title of being the longest combined vehicle-railroad tunnel in North America!
The tunnel, which passes through a mountainside, is only open from 5:30 am to 11:15 pm, from May through September, and 7:00 am to 10:45 pm through the winter months. At any given time, the traffic only flows one-way, with the direction changing every half an hour. You can check the schedule here.
There’s also a pretty hefty toll to drive through the tunnel, starting at $13 (roundtrip) per passenger vehicle—but where else can you drive through the longest highway tunnel in North America?!
Taking the ferry to Whittier
As mentioned above, you can take an Alaska Marine Highway ferry from the small fishing town of Valdez, along the rugged coastline of the Prince William Sound.
During the summer months, there are sailings every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, with tickets for the six hour ride starting around $180 (one-way) for one passenger and one standard vehicle.
Arriving in Whittier via cruise ship
It’s worth mentioning that, every summer, dozens of Alaskan cruise ships dock in Whittier, with many of them actually starting or ending in Whittier.
If you don’t have your own passenger vehicle and need to get from Anchorage to Whittier or vice versa, there are several operators that offer transfers between the two.
If you’re heading from Anchorage to Whittier to start your cruise, consider:
- Anchorage to Whittier Wildlife Adventure: On this three hour journey, you’ll be picked up at the Anchorage airport and then make your way to Whittier’s port, stopping at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center along the way. This center serves as a sanctuary for injured or orphaned animals that would not survive in the wild and allows visitors to learn more about Alaska’s incredible wildlife.
- Anchorage to Whittier Transfer: If you’re looking for something more direct, this option takes you from the Anchorage airport straight to Whittier’s port.
If you’re ending your cruise in Whittier and need to head into Anchorage, either to fly home or continue your journey around Alaska, here are some options to consider:
- Whittier to Anchorage Sightseeing Tour: This tour, which lasts for up to eight hours, stops at several sites along the Seward Highway, including the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, a mountaintop via the Alyeska Tram, and lookouts along the Seward Highway, where you can spot bald eagles or even beluga whales swimming in the Cook Inlet.
- Half-day tour from Whittier to Anchorage: For a slightly shorter option, this six and a half hour tour stops at several stops from the Whittier port to Anchorage, including Girdwood Brewing (which was actually our favorite brewery in Alaska!); Earthquake Park, where you can see geological changes caused by the 1964 earthquake that damaged Whittier’s Buckner Building; and the world’s busiest seaplane base.
- Direct transfer from Whittier to Anchorage: If you’re short on time or just pooped after your cruise, this no-nonsense transfer takes you directly from Whittier’s port to Anchorage.
Taking the train to Whittier
Finally, I think one of the most underrated things to do in Anchorage is to actually hop on a train from Alaska Railroad, who offers a variety of stunningly scenic routes that head up to Fairbanks or down through the Kenai Peninsula. And one of the routes, the Glacier Discovery Line, stops right in Whittier!
From June through mid-September, this line leaves from Anchorage at 9:45 AM, arriving in Whittier at 12:05 PM. You’ll have all afternoon to explore Whittier, whether you want to hike the Portage Pass trail or hop onboard your Alaskan cruise. If you want to head back to Anchorage, the train departs from Whittier at 6:45 PM, arriving back in the city at 9 PM.
Just be aware this definitely isn’t the cheapest option—about $238 roundtrip—but, if you’re a train fanatic, like my dad, I’m sure it’s well worth the price tag!
I hope you enjoy doing some of the fun things to do in Whittier, Alaska–we loved exploring this quirky little town! Do you have any questions about visiting Whittier? Let us know in the comments below!
